Today, we have so many choices for our retirement funds, it can be difficult to choose which one to contribute to. If you are fortunate enough to have more than one retirement plan available to you, in what order do you contribute to them?
First of all, most folks have some sort of tax-deferred, qualified, retirement account available. They go by many names – 401(k), 403(b), 457, and deferred compensation. This kind of account is a good place to start when contributing retirement savings. For the purpose of clarity, when I refer to a 401(k) plan, I am referring to all of these kinds of plans. Understand, though, that this does not include traditional or Roth IRA accounts.
If your employer matches your contributions, you should definitely choose the 401(k) plan as the place to start with your contributions. For example, your employer may choose to match your contributions to the 401(k) at a rate of fifty cents per dollar for the first 6% that you contribute to the plan. What this means is that, if you make $50,000 per year and you contribute 6% ($3,000) to your 401(k) plan, after the employer match you’ll have a total of $4,500 contributed to your account by the end of the year. With the fifty cents per dollar match, you’re making a 50% return on your money, even before you invest it in the market! An additional bonus is that the contributions you make are pre-tax, so they’re actually costing you less in the long run.
For example, the $3,000 we used in the example above would actually only decrease your take-home pay by approximately $2,250 for the year if you were in the 25% income tax bracket ($3,000 x 25% = $750, $3,000 - $750 = $2,250). So, in other words, when you include the employer match, you are actually doubling your money when you contribute to this account at this level.
Next, you should begin contributing to a Roth IRA.
A Roth IRA is a retirement account that allows you to contribute, for 2004, up to $3,000 per person, plus a $500 catch-up provision for folks over the age of 50. This amount increases to $4,000 per person for 2005. You can open an account with a discount brokerage, a mutual fund company, or at your local bank. Some of the unique features about a Roth IRA include the following:
1. Once you’ve contributed funds to the account, qualified withdrawals of the contributions and the growth of the account will be tax free. That’s right, tax free. The qualifications aren’t that difficult to live with, either – you can begin withdrawals in the year you reach the age 59 ½.
2. Your contributions are available to you. You can withdraw the contributed amount (but not any growth of the account) at any time you wish, for any purpose.
3. The entire account may be withdrawn for other qualified purposes prior to retirement, as well. Among these qualified purposes are: purchase of a first home, education expenses, or health-care expenses.
You have until April 15, 2005 to make a contribution to a Roth IRA for 2004. Make sure your broker or custodian understands that this contribution is for the year 2004. Once you’ve maxed out your 2004 contribution, begin maxing out your 2005 contribution to the Roth IRA.
For example, for a couple that makes $50,000 and $30,000 between the two of them, if their employers match fifty cents on the dollar for the first 6%, the first step is to contribute that 6% to each of your plans, for a total contribution on your account of $4,800 (6% of $80,000). Then you each can contribute $4,000 to Roth IRAs, for a total of $12,800 being contributed for your household ($3,000 plus $1800 plus $4,000 plus $4,000 equals $12,800). Keep in mind that I have not included the employers’ matches of $1500 and $900 to your accounts. We’re only counting what you’ve contributed here.
Thirdly, you should make additional contributions to your employer’s 401(k) or other defined contribution plan, up to the limit allowed by your employer or by law. For 2005, the maximum amount that you can contribute to a 401(k) plan is $14,000, and there’s a catch-up provision amount of $4,000 for folks over the age of 50. This is a pretty high limit to “lock up” in retirement savings, so the following options may not be applicable to your situation, but I list them for the sake of education:
Traditional IRA – if you don’t have access to an employer-sponsored income deferral plan like a 401(k), you may want to reduce your tax burden a bit by contributing to a traditional IRA. The limits on contribution amounts are the same as described for Roth IRAs, so this can be a significant amount to set aside to reduce your taxes. Keep in mind, though, that you can only contribute the maximum amount in either a Roth IRA or a traditional IRA, or a combination of the two. In other words, the maximum contribution limit of $4,000 for 2005 is for ALL IRA contributions, whether traditional or Roth.
Non-qualified plans – many employers offer savings plans that go above and beyond the 401(k) limits. Each plan is different, so you’ll want to check the provisions to determine if the plan is appropriate for you.
Employee Stock Purchase (or Ownership) Plan – also known as ESPP or ESOP, these plans typically have a provision for controlled purchase of your employer’s stock at a discount. Assuming that you are not over-exposed to your employer’s stock (rule of thumb: no more than 5% in any single company), this may be a good place to contribute some retirement money. Keep a close eye on your exposure to this single company, as well as your company’s future prospects. Remember Enron?
College Savings Plans – after you’ve funded your retirement, consider placing some money in a 529 plan or Coverdell Education Savings Account for your child(ren)’s education. In many states, these contributions are tax-deductible.